Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Cat hairballs





Cat Hairballs are something every cat owner has encountered one time or another.

Little Mo has had her fair share over the years, although being a shorthaired cat the problem has been very infrequent and mild. Longhaired cats are not so lucky and my old Maine Coon cat Tigger was prone to some very nasty attacks of cat vomiting.

So exactly what are hairballs and what do they look like?

For the first time cat owner a cat hairball can be something of a shock, especially as they don't actually look like a ball at all. To best describe them you would have to say they look like a dark coloured slimy sausage of matted cat hair.

Depending on the amount of hair swallowed by your cat they can range in size, Little Mo's are about the size of my little finger, but Tigger's were much longer and thicker (this is a lovely subject isn't it?)

So why do cats get hairballs?

In the wild a cats fur coat will have different thickness's depending on the season. Their coat will naturally shed when the weather becomes warmer and thickens up during the cold months.

In the wild the loose fur is more likely to fall off by itself and so requires less assistance from the cat. However our domestic cats are now used to living in more comfortable surroundings inside with central heating.

This unfortunately means that the fur coat does not shed at the usual seasonal times and is more likely to have a light shedding all year round.

To get rid of this loose hair cats will groom themselves and so be prone to swallowing more cat hair. This loose hair if swallowed in large enough quantities will be unable to pass through the intestines and so begins to form what we call a fur ball.

How do I know if my cat has a hairball?

Normally a hairball can be passed through the cat's digestive system and will pass out via the cat's faeces. In which case most cat owners would not be aware that there was one. Hoverer if a fur ball becomes too large the quickest and easiest way for the cat to get rid of it is to vomit it up.

The first signs that your cat might be feeling a little unwell is when you see them eating grass, which means they are trying to make themselves sick.

Another indication that something is wrong is that your cat may stop eating for a day or so and may even start to retch a lot, without anything coming up.

Usually the cat will be able to regurgitate the furball by themselves after a few days.

After which they are usually back to their old selves and famished. In some very rare cases the fur ball may become so stuck that the cat cannot vomit it up themselves, causing an obstruction in the gastrointestinal tract.

In these cases it will have to be removed by a vet surgically, thankfully this is a very rare.

Can Fur balls be prevented?

Although there are no guarantees that your cat won't ever get a fur ball, there are certain things that you as an owner can do to reduce the occurrence and frequency of them. After all it can't be very nice for kitty to keep getting sick all the time.

Grooming - weekly or in the case of longhaired cats, daily brushing of your cats fur to remove loose hairs with a brush is essential. The fewer loose hairs there are for your cat to swallow the better.

Dry Food - There are some dry foods available that help the loose hair to pass more easily through the intestines and so prevents a fur ball from forming.

Lubrication - There are some safe lubricating remedies on the market that help your cat to pass a particularly difficult hairball.

We sometimes have to give Little Mo a helping hand with this type of medication. She loves it as you can get them in different flavours and after a short while the fur ball is usually passed.

Cat health problems



Do you have some nasty cat health problems that you hope to solve? Welcome to animalsadpets.blogspot.com, where you will find all the information you’ll need to make sure your cat lives those nine lives to the fullest and your pets symptoms explained. Your cat will reward you a thousand fold with loving company and beguiling ways and will bring years of delight into your life.

It’s not only a privilege to own house cats but a big responsibility too. However they come into your life, whether they adopt you, or come from the cat rescue shelter or because someone was finding new homes for kittens, they are part of your family and your life, and as a loving and responsible owner you’ll not only be providing good food, shelter and a warm place to sleep but also making sure that all their health and welfare needs are met. It is up to you to make sure that you protect your pet as much as possible from the wide range of feline conditions and cat illness that can arise, even better get cat health insurance.

On this site you will find the complete spectrum of cat care issues and plenty of useful detail to help you understand more about cat health and the treatment and prevention of illness. If you are able to recognize in your cat health symptoms and signs of illness you will be able to help ensure timely and adequate treatment, such as a diabetic cat would have increased thirst, due to the increased production of urine, sudden weight loss, depressed for no reason or has got a poor coat condition.

You will also be able to find out more on different types of cats, and how the cat breeds differ from one another and if you are naming your new cat we have a big database of cat names too.   

Up to date vaccination requirements are listed and explained, and there are articles devoted to particular cat hygiene issues. There is plenty of information on giving your cat nutrition based on an optimum balance of food groups and why you should not allow cats to put on excess weight. Basic feline anatomy and physiology is covered too so that you can understand how the feline body works and how it is affected by illness and disease.

Each article will give you in depth information in language that is easy to understand, and many subjects are accompanied by simple illustrations to show how a joint is structured and how it moves, or how where an internal organ is situated. Diseases are explained too so that you can understand the treatment the veterinary surgeon is giving and why, and you will find lots of helpful suggestions on general day to day problems like fur ball, fleas and food fads.

We would stress that this information is not meant as a substitute for professional advice, and in caring for your cat veterinary supervision and expertise is vital. On no account should you ever let your loving companion suffer. We strongly advise you to seek expert help on any issue regarding your pet – our aim is to provide you with the knowledge to understand cats and to help you work alongside the veterinary team to make sure that your pet stays fit and healthy and to be of the best support during any illness.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Why cats scratch





Our neighbor has a female cat named Peaches who frequently scratches the bark on a cherry tree in their front yard. In fact, the tree has been scratched so much that there are noticeable gouges in it and small pieces of bark have accumulated on the ground underneath. Why does Peaches scratch this tree so much?

It has long been assumed that when cats scratch objects with their front paws that they are sharpening their claws. It turns out that this is only a secondary reason. Research on cat behavior suggests that the major reason for this behavior is communication. By roughing up the bark of a tree (or the leg of your favorite chair) the cat is letting other cats or people know where she is and what she is up to.

Cats tend to pick a small number of conspicuous objects in their environments to scratch such as trees, fence posts, the corner of the couch, etc., and return to them repeatedly. This is why the tree next door looks so scratched up and why your cat may find it difficult to leave your couch alone. The scratched surface leaves a highly visible mark that can be easily seen by other cats. In addition, cats have scent glands in their paws so that when they make scratching movements they leave odor cues that the cats can smell. The fact that cats leave scent marks by making scratching movements may be the reason that cats will continue to try to scratch objects even after they have been declawed. Declawed cats may still be leaving scent marks on objects they scratch.

We don’ t know exactly what cats are communicating with their scratching. Both males and females do it, it is done inside and outside the home and even by cats living with no other cats around. It could be a territorial warning or just a marker that announces "Peaches lives here and is alive and well!" Cats don’ t scratch up your furniture to spite you or just to be destructive, but for specific reasons, one of which is communicating. Cats also scratch to stretch, during play, and possibly as a greeting or to relieve frustration when prevented from doing other things they want to do.

Cats use scent from other parts of their bodies to communicate as well. They have scent glands at the corners of their mouths, in the thin hair between their eyes and ears and at the base of their tails. They leave scent marks on people and objects when they rub their heads and tails on things. Just what they are communicating with the rubbing isn’ t known, but they seem to do it most to people or other cats they are attached to or when they are feeling friendly. Cats can also scent-mark by spraying urine on objects. Cats spray from a standing position, not from the squatting posture they use during elimination. Spraying often occurs during territorial disputes and when the cat is highly aroused or frustrated and is usually not related to litterbox problems.

When scratching is done indoors on walls, furniture or carpeted areas it can result in considerable damage, owner frustration and sometimes the loss of the home for the cat. It is easier to prevent problem scratching rather than trying to change your cat’ s preference for the arm of your sofa after it has become an established habit. Thus, the goal is to establish acceptable scratching habits by getting your cat to prefer a scratching post rather than the arm of your sofa.

Some pointers for establishing good scratching habits in kittens and newly acquired adult cats:

1. Put out several scratching posts in 2 or 3 areas most used by the cat, such as near the sleeping place, and the places the cat most likes to rest and to play.

2. You can make your own scratching objects rather than purchasing them, but be sure the scratching surface is fabric that is easy for the cat to shred.

3. Don’ t put the cat’ s paws on the post and force it to

4. Do encourage scratching on the post by playing with dangle-toys on or near the post, scenting the post with catnip, using praise and food rewards when the cat scratches the post or even scratching the post yourself to stimulate the cat to scratch.

For older cats who have an established scratching problem:

1. Make the damaged scratching area unavailable or cover it with thick plastic so that it feels different and less appealing.

2. Put the scratching post next to the damaged area and be sure it is covered with a material that is acceptable to the cat. Some cats prefer to rake loose-weaved fabric, while others like to "pick" at knubby textures.

3. Because cats like to scratch in prominent areas of their home, you may need to leave the post in the area where the cat prefers to scratch. Your cat may not scratch a post located in the back corner of the basement.

Most cats can be taught or retrained to scratch a post and not damage other things. If these ideas do not resolve the problem, talk to your veterinarian about a referral to an animal behaviorist. Declawing your cat should be the last resort if all else fails.

(Formerly published in the Rocky Mountain News, CO)

Neutering your cat



From around the age of 5 to 8 months, kittens reach sexual maturity and are therefore capable of breeding and producing kittens themselves! Most people do not have the time or desire to breed from their cat and do not wish to add to the number of unwanted cats and kittens already looking for homes. Neutering a cat - castration in the male (removal of the testes), and spaying the female (removal of the ovaries and uterus) - not only prevents unwanted pregnancies occurring, but also curbs unwanted behavioural patterns associated with sexual maturity and reduces the risk of certain diseases.

What sex is my kitten? 

Kittens, especially young kittens, can be hard to sex, and therefore, mistakes are often made. If you are in any doubt you should ask your vet (they will check prior to neutering anyway). To tell the difference between the sexes you will need to lift the tail and look at the genitals. In the male, about 1cm below the anus is the opening of the prepuce with the scrotum immediately above this. The anus and prepuce appear like two 'dots'. In the female, the vulva is a vertical slit which is almost joined to the anus, like a letter i.

Spaying a female  

In the past it has been suggested that all female cats should be allowed to have one litter of kittens. However, this is totally unnecessary and of no benefit whatsoever to the cat. It is therefore preferable to have a female spayed before she reaches sexual maturity. Once sexual maturity is reached, the cat will begin to come into season or 'call'. Cycles of sexual activity typically occur every three weeks, and when a cat is 'calling', as its name implies, this can be a very noisy affair! Certain drugs can be used to suppress the sexual cycle, but these carry quite a risk of significant side effects in cats and are not recommended for long-term use. If you are not going to breed from your female kitten, having her spayed will eliminate the sexual behaviour, the possibility of unplanned pregnancies and the risk of diseases associated with the genital tract later in life.

The spaying operation involves the administration of a general anaesthetic and the surgical removal of the ovaries and uterus through an incision made on the flank or belly of the cat. The fur at the site of the incision will have to be shaved before surgery and your vet will ask you to withhold food from the evening prior to the anaesthetic. Usually your kitten will be able to return home the same day and the skin sutures are generally removed after 7 to 10 days.

Castrating a male     

Castrating a male is equally important as spaying a female to prevent unwanted pregnancies. Furthermore, entire male cats have a strong tendency to roam, to be aggressive to other males, to fight and to mark their territory by spraying urine (often indoors!). The aggressive behaviour puts an uncastrated male at much higher risk of serious infectious disease such as feline immunodeficiency virus (feline 'AIDS') and feline leukaemia virus, both of which are transmitted through cat bites.

Castration involves removing both testes under general anaesthetic through small incisions into the scrotum. As with the spay operation, withholding food from the previous evening will be required to minimise potential anaesthetic complications, and the kitten can usually go home the same day. Usually the skin incisions for a castration are so small that sutures are not required.

Postoperative care     

Cats usually recover from the neutering operation remarkably quickly. They may be a little drowsy for a few hours, but by the next day they are usually very lively again. It is sensible to try to keep your kitten fairly quiet for a day or two to allow the internal wounds some time to heal. However, if your kitten seems unusually quiet or dull you should contact your vet. Also, if your kitten starts to lick or scratch excessively at the skin sutures, contact your vet to get a dressing or special collar to prevent any damage being done to the wound.

It is important to remember that once a cat has been neutered, there is a stronger tendency for it to become obese. You may therefore need to adjust the amount of food you provide should your cat start to put on too much weight.

Dark patches of fur  

The skin temperature is important in determining the hair colour of some cats (eg, Siamese cats). This means that when a patch of hair is shaved (eg, for the spay operation) the new hair may grow back a darker colour. However, this is only temporary and, as further hair growth occurs, the dark hairs are replaced by normal lighter coloured hairs.

Age for neutering  

A cat can be neutered at virtually any age although it is usually done at 4 - 6 months old. Undesirable behaviour patterns may be more difficult to alter if cats are neutered when they are older. It is now becoming increasingly common for cats to be neutered at an earlier age (2-3 months old). Timing of neutering is discussed in more detail on a Cat Group Policy statement.

Feeding your cat


To understand the cat's complex and highly individual pattern of feeding it is important to consider its ancestry. The domestic cat (Felis catus ) is adapted to a hunting lifestyle existing on an almost totally animal diet. Its jaws, digestive system and behaviour have been developed to accommodate this behaviour. Throughout the process of domestication the cat has not changed significantly in its nutritional and behavioural needs and it has remained dependent on animal tissues as the main source of its food. The sensory system of cats is particularly adapted to respond to the constituents and sensory qualities of meat.

Because it is an obligate carnivore and therefore has special dietary requirements which distinguish it from other carnivores such as the dog, the cat requires animal derived tissue in its diet and has a higher protein requirement than many other mammals. Cats are unable to adjust to a low protein diet and will use body protein to satisfy their needs. The uniqueness of this species has been demonstrated by their specific dietary requirements. A deficiency of the amino acid, arginine, in a single meal can lead to clinical signs of lethargy, hypersalivation and vocalisation. Arginine is required by the cat to synthesise urea, a waste product resulting from the breakdown of protein.

Another essential nutrient for the cat is the amino acid, taurine, which the cat cannot synthesise sufficiently to meet its needs. The cat's diet must therefore contain taurine in sufficient quantities. If a deficiency develops there is a high risk of serious and irreversible damage to major organs such as the eye and the heart. Taurine is found almost entirely in meat and supports the concept of the cat as an obligate carnivore.

Whilst it is difficult to establish a direct relationship between nutrition and longevity, it is obvious that inadequate or deficient diets do have a major impact on critical stages of the life cycle of the cat, such as, reproduction, the rearing of a healthy litter, growth and development. It is also obvious from the above that certain illnesses have a dietary component to their onset and can have serious consequences for the cat.

Perception of flavour 

The factors that can influence a cat's perception of 'flavours' include a food's odour, taste, texture and temperature.

The olfactory apparatus (organ of smell) of domestic cats is far more sensitive than that of humans. The perceived odour from food is particularly important for the initiation of feeding. If the odour is highly palatable to the cat then that alone will encourage consumption of an otherwise bland diet. However, the response to odour will be less if the cat does not taste the food too. The sense of taste combined with the sense of odour are most important in the perception of flavour. Cats have taste buds on their tongues that respond well to substances classified by humans as salty, sour or bitter. Unlike many mammals, cats do not appear to respond to the taste of 'sweet', but their taste buds are particularly sensitive to the constituents of meat - thus cats respond to various amino acids, the building blocks of animal proteins.

The texture of a food also affects palatability. Cats are unable to chew effectively. They reduce the size of the food by tearing or cutting it into pieces which can then be swallowed. The moisture content of the food influences the meal size and speed at which the food is eaten. Moist, palatable canned food is eaten rapidly when it is first offered although this gradually slows down over the mealtime. In contrast the more calorie dense dry foods are consumed at a slower, more constant rate. Semi-moist foods are consumed at a rate intermediate to the canned and dry foods. However, when food is offered ad lib, the pattern of feeding remains constant with small discreet meals being taken at random. The overall energy intake is rarely affected by the texture of the food.

Temperature also plays an important role in food selection. Most cats prefer food at temperatures around 35 degrees centigrade. This preference may be partly explained by the increase in food odour that occurs as the food is warmed but it is perhaps more than coincidence as this temperature is similar to that of freshly killed prey. As temperatures rise to about 40 degrees centigrade, the preference for the food decreases.

Previous experience 

A cat's preference for food types is influenced by genetic and acquired feeding traits. Inherent patterns of behaviour play a large part in discriminating useful foods, as is indicated when orphaned kittens are being raised by hand without the benefits of learning from their natural parents. However, the individual cat's likes and dislikes for certain foods are influenced through the types of food experienced through its life.

Cats do like variety in their diet and will often choose a new diet in preference to a familiar one, as long as the difference is not too great, or the palatability too low. As the cat is a true carnivore, the different food items which are acceptable to it all tend to be very similar. This may explain why total aversion to a newly encountered food is not commonly found in the cat unless it is very different to its normal food, or of low palatability. If the cat is initially reluctant to accept a new food, this can often be overcome by offering several small meals of fresh food on subsequent occasions, thereby maintaining high odour levels.

The selection of food items may also be related to the motivational level of the cat. When under stress adult cats tend to select familiar food items rather than a new diet and may reject foods which have recently been associated with a stressful or painful event. Cats may also reject diets that are deficient in certain minerals and vitamins, such as thiamine. Cats probably recognise deficient foods via learned aversion. This appears to occur due to a linking of the flood flavour with an unsatisfactory digestive consequence, that is a rapid learning of flavour associated with a physiological response.

There are many other factors which can affect the feeding pattern of cats. Many cats are sensitive to lighting and noise levels, so the place of feeding may also be as important as the type of food container used and its cleanliness. Physiological factors, such as age, health and sexual activity of the cat can also affect appetite. The ability to appreciate taste and smell deteriorate with age and are reduced by certain disease conditions such as cat 'flu.

Stress associated with physiological factors such as new surroundings when moving house or being boarded or hospitalised may reduce food intake as may the introduction or loss of either a human or animal in the cat's environment. Short term veterinary treatment, such as castration or the lancing of an abscess, does not usually interfere with feeding patterns, however more prolonged medical interference can reduce appetite.

Energy needs 

Many cats control their energy intake regardless of differences in the energy density, moisture content and texture of the diet. In general cats will normally eat the amount of food required to satisfy their energy requirements. Cats that hunt for food or are normally outdoors for long periods of time tend to take larger meals, but less of them. However cats readily adapt to different feeding schedules and if set feeding times are used then they will normally adjust food intake to accommodate this. The energy in food is measured in kilocalories (kcal) and is derived from fats, carbohydrates and protein. It is important that the percentage of energy provided by the protein part of the diet is at least 25% of the whole, otherwise the cat's appetite will be satisfied before it has taken in enough protein for its health requirements. Similarly it is also important that the food intake level is sufficient to supply the other necessary nutrients such as fats, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals.

Types of nutrients 

Protein

Protein is necessary for life, which is true whether the species is man, dog or cat. Proteins are large complex molecules which consist of chains of much smaller building blocks called amino acids. Cats, like other animals, require protein in their diet to provide the specific amino acids which their bodies cannot synthesise, these are referred to as the essential amino acids. These are then reformed into new proteins which are necessary for tissue growth, repair and the regulation of metabolic processes.

The cat has been shown to have a higher dietary protein requirement than the dog in both the adult and growth stages of development. This does not seem to be due to a high requirement for one or more particular amino acids, but because its metabolism appears to be set at a high rate of breakdown for amino acids which increases the demand for protein. Unlike other species which can adjust their rate of protein breakdown, cats seem to be unable to 'switch off' these mechanisms when presented with a low protein diet. This may be because the cat had little 'pressure' during the course of evolution to adapt to a low protein diet because of its efficient predatory behaviour which has ensured a high protein meat diet. Furthermore, animal flesh is low in carbohydrate which is the usual source of blood sugar in non-carnivorous species. Due to the cat's high intake of animal tissue, the ability to break down large quantities of protein to glucose is essential and may also help to explain the high protein needs of the cat. It is therefore recommended that the protein intake for the adult cat provides at least 25% of the daily calorie intake.

Fats

Dietary fats perform several functions They are the most concentrated energy source of all nutrients, and increase palatability and texture to cat foods. They are also important in carrying the fat soluble vitamins, A, D and E. Fat is essential to the cat's diet as it supplies the essential fatty acids (EFAs), linoleic and arachidonic acids, which play key roles in maintaining the general health of the cat and are vital in many body systems including the skin, kidneys and reproductive organs. In most mammals linoleic acid can be converted into the other EFAs required by the animal. The cat has a limited capacity to do this and whilst this may not seriously affect the health of the adult cat it does affect specific life stages such as reproduction. Linoleic acid is found in large amounts in plant oils but the EFAs derived from it are found almost exclusively in animal tissues. However, small amounts of linoleic acid are also found in meats and arachidonic acid is found exclusively in meat, making meat the best source of fat for cats. It is recommended that at least 9% of calories should be provided by fat.

Carbohydrates

The cat has no nutritional need for carbohydrate as it is able to derive a lot of its energy from the breakdown of protein. It does, however, have the necessary enzymes to digest and metabolise carbohydrates so they can form a useful dietary source of energy. Cats can therefore be fed wheatflakes, cooked rice and even potatoes to a limited extent, although some cats cannot tolerate high concentrations of certain sugars. For example, if suddenly given a large bowl of milk, some cats can develop diarrhoea from the sugars (sucrose and lactose) due to the lack of digestive enzymes resulting in fermentation of the sugars by bacteria in the gut. There are milk drinks designed especially for cats that are lactose reduced.

Vitamins

Studies in man and animals indicate that the so-called antioxidant vitamins, C, E and beta carotene (the precursor of Vitamin A, present in certain plants, vegetables and fruit) are important in preventing certain substances called free radicals from causing damage to cells and being involved in the ageing process. Vitamins may also be protective against certain forms of cancer.

Vitamin A

Vitamin A is best known for its importance in vision. It is also involved in other processes such as the regulation of cell membranes and the growth of bones and teeth. Beta carotene found in plant material, is used by many mammals as a precursor of Vitamin A. The cat, however, is unable to convert beta carotene to vitamin A and must therefore obtain its vitamin A from animal sources. Good sources for the cat are organs such as liver and kidneys, with muscle tissue being relatively low in this vitamin. However, a word of caution is necessary here, too much vitamin A can be as harmful as too little, and cats fed diets consisting mainly of raw liver have developed a condition known as hypervitaminosis A, presenting with signs of lethargy, unthriftiness, stiff neck and other skeletal problems. The daily requirement for an adult cat is in the region of 650-850 International Units which is present in only 5g of good quality beef liver.

Vitamin D

Vitamin D is involved in the metabolism of calcium. Animal tissue is low in calcium so the cat's diet must be supplemented with this mineral. A deficiency of vitamin D results in rickets. However, cats need very little vitamin D and when the quantity and ration of calcium to phosphorus in the diet is normal, true rickets is very rarely seen.

Vitamin E

Although very uncommon, vitamin E deficiency can occur in cats, particularly when fed food containing large amounts of unsaturated fats to which antioxidants have not been added. Unsaturated fats oxidise and go rancid easily, as a result, the vitamin E present is destroyed. Yellow fat disease or steatitis occurs due to a deficiency of vitamin E and may occur when feeding red tuna which does not have the necessary antioxidant or extra vitamin E added. Normal diets and proprietary foods containing tuna fish are adequately protected in this respect.

Vitamin C

Cats do not need to be fed vitamin C as they are able to produce their own.

B-group vitamins

The water soluble vitamins that are of relevance to cat nutrition are all members of the B-group or complex, and nearly all are involved with the utilisation of foods and the production of interconversion of energy in the body. Vitamin B1, or thiamine, is needed in relatively large amounts by the cat. Because it is progressively destroyed by heating, pet food manufacturers add calculated amounts in the pure form to the food being processed. Exactly the same progressive destruction occurs in any cooking operation so home cooked meats will need to be supplemented. Raw fish diets may also result in a deficiency of B1, due to the presence of thiaminase which destroy the vitamins.

Minerals

Minerals can be divided into two groups, the major or macro minerals which are required in larger quantities and the micro or trace minerals which are required in much smaller amounts. Almost all (about 99%) of the cat's body calcium is contained in the skeleton and teeth. Soft tissues such as meats and offal are very low in calcium and if they are fed as the sole food source, calcium deficiency will occur. Proprietary prepared foods from reputable manufacturers are supplemented as necessary during manufacture. Milk is a good source of calcium, unfortunately some cats are unable to tolerate the sugar present in milk (lactose) because of an inadequate amount of the enzyme lactase, which is important in lactose digestion. Some cats, especially of the Siamese breed, will not drink milk at all. Good proprietary diets have adequate supplies of the major and trace minerals.

Water

Water is the single most important nutrient necessary to sustain life. In spite of popular belief, cats require fresh clean water throughout a 24-hour period, even if they are drinking milk as well.

Obesity 

If the cat is being fed individual meals several times daily, there is often a tendency to offer the daily supply of food on several occasions rather than divide up the daily feed into several meals. This can also occur with cats fed dry food ad lib. Cats usually regulate their food intake, but continual exposure to large quantities of food may lead to over-eating and subsequent obesity if too many calories are consumed. Monitor your cat's weight and ensure it does not become fat.

Kittens 

At birth kittens on average weigh about 100g (about 3-4 ounces). They then show a phenomenal growth rate, the birth weight is doubled in the first week and they increase in weight by about 100g/week up to about 6 months of age. Because of the nutritional burden this places on the lactating queen, kittens should be encouraged to begin eating solid foods from about 3 weeks of age with weaning completed by 8 weeks of age. The solid food offered must be soft, palatable and offered in a shallow dish. As the interest in and ability to take solid food develops, they will reduce their demand on the queen for milk and her production will fall. Ideally the kitten should be weaned onto the food which will form its diet until fully grown.

To be suitable for kittens a food must meet a number of criteria. It must be highly digestible and have a smell, taste and texture which encourages the kitten to eat. Dry food such as kibbles may also be fed as they are high in calories, however it may be necessary to soak them in water or a little milk first. Following weaning, kittens should continue to be fed all they will eat of a good quality prepared cat food designed for growing kittens. Excessive calorie intake, growth rates and obesity do not generally occur in the growing kitten. Since they have relatively tiny stomachs, kittens should be fed small meals at regular intervals. Four or five meals are recommended at eight weeks of age, decreasing to two at six months of age.

Implications for feeding healthy and sick cats 

The study of the feeding behaviour of cats has many applications for the cat owner. Odour, texture and temperature of food are important factors in the cat's feeding behaviour and can be manipulated to tempt the problem feeder or sick cat. When feeding the sick cat there are several ways in which the feeding regime can be manipulated in order to tempt food consumption. Offering palatable food with a strong odour will help to initiate feeding, and warming the food to about 35 degrees centigrade should also increase the odour produced by the food. Consequently food that is stored in a refrigerator should be warmed first or at least allowed to reach room temperature before being offered.

When food is left to stand in a dish the odour released decreases during the day making the food less appealing. Therefore with problem feeders offering regular small quantities of a warm palatable food may improve consumption. Increasing the amount of flavours (by feeding different varieties) and textures (dry and canned) in the diet may also increase food intake.

If a special diet is required in the management of a disease condition, it is preferable to introduce it gradually while the cat still has access to its original diet (unless contraindicated on medical grounds). This process allows the cat to become familiar with the new diet and learn that it is safe to eat. However, failure to eat a new diet may be associated with low palatability rather than by unfamiliarity to the food. Finally, as a familiar diet is preferred at times of stress, owners should ensure that an acceptable diet is available for their cat when it is placed in a different environment, such as in a cattery.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Cat Litter Boxes





The most common reason a cat will not use its litter box...

Because the litter box is dirty - from the cat's viewpoint, not yours. Cats often react to any type of  stress by suddenly urinating or defecating outside the litter box. The stress may be caused by a new cat in the neighborhood; children home on vacation; too many cats in the house; your going away on vacation or a new piece of furniture. Urinary tract problems also cause cats to urinate in places other than the litter box. Any sudden change in elimination habits should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Prevent House Soiling

Until your cat is reliably house trained, she should not have free run of your home. If your cat continually makes mistakes, the behavior can simply become a habit. Punishing a cat after the fact teaches her to be afraid of you. Scolding and then taking the cat to her litter box after she has already eliminated teaches her to associate the litter box with punishment. Basically, punishment doesn't work with cats: prevention and praise for getting it right are the keys to training. When you leave the house for any length of time, your cat should be confined to a single room, preferably one with non-porous floors, such as a kitchen, bathroom, utility room, basement or garage. Provide your cat with a bowl of water and a warm place to sleep at one end of the room and a freshly cleaned litter box at the other end. Until the house soiling has been cured, your cat should have a regular feeding schedule so she will develop a corresponding elimination schedule. Read more on how cats learn.

The Litter Box

Your cat does not simply need a litter box - she needs a clean litter box with fresh litter. Your cat will be inhibited from using her litter box if it smells of urine. Think about it from the cat's viewpoint. When she soils your dining room carpet, the area is immediately and thoroughly cleaned. Given the choice between a regularly cleaned place and a litter box that gets changed only once or twice a week, your cat will naturally prefer the carpet. 

The litter box must be cleaned daily. The old litter must be discarded and replaced with about 1 1/2 inches of fresh litter. Rinse the litter box thoroughly with water. Adding a little vinegar or lemon juice to the water will help neutralize the odor of the cat's urine. Do not use ammonia; this will make the litter box smell worse. 

Make sure that the litter box is in an appropriate place. Cats do not like to soil the areas close to their sleeping or eating areas, so place the litter box some distance away. However, do not place the litter box in an area that is too inaccessible. For example, if the litter box is placed in the bathroom, make sure the door cannot swing shut preventing the cat from getting to it. If the cat is new to your home, she may go into hiding for a few days so place a litter box close to her hiding place. 

Some additional factor may be inhibiting your cat from using her litter box, so put down an extra one in a different location. If there is more than one cat in the house, have several litter boxes available.

Housetraining Success: Reward for Using the Litter Box

In order to reward your cat for eliminating in her litter box, you must be there at the time she eliminates. You need to have some idea of when your cat urinates and defecates. Most cats, especially kittens, will eliminate shortly after waking; after eating; and after exercise. 

To help you predict when your cat will eliminate, feed her at regular times. If the input is on a regular schedule, the output will follow likewise. Before feeding your cat, spend ten to fifteen minutes playing with her. Then put down the food, allow her fifteen minutes to eat and then clear up any leftovers. After your cat has eaten, it is time for another gentle play session. Call her to her litter box from a variety of places around your house, especially areas where she has soiled. When your cat gets to the box, scratch the litter to get her interested. Similarly, throughout the day, whenever your cat has been asleep for over two hours, wake her up and call her to the litter box. Encourage your cat to hop into the litter box, praise her when she does so. Even if she does not eliminate, she is learning that the litter box is a great, CLEAN place to be. This is especially important for cats that are now avoiding the litter box because they assume it is always dirty or because they associate it with being punished. If your cat does eliminate, praise her in a gentle voice. Once she has finished, gently stroke her, give her a treat and take the time to tell her how pleased you are with her behavior.         

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